PERGOLA PATTERN DESIGN RAFTER TAILS WINDOWS

Without so much obstruction, hacking out a reasonably small trench in the grass with a mattock and shovels would have been my excavation process. Note: Part of the reason for this excavation was that there was an existing brick fireplace, with footing, that needed to be demo’ed and carted away.

With the level surface prepped I could proceed with final-or micro-layout. Once I knew the pergola’s footprint (within a few inches), I graded a level pad using a rented Toro Dingo and bucket attachment. Furthermore, I don’t want a neighbor coming to me and saying I have to move my pergola because it’s past the set-back. For example, the fences built into the corner of the property weren’t square to one another either, so as a final filter to make sure the pergola’s footprint was right where I wanted it, I measured off the house’s back wall. There’s a big payoff to being careful and thorough here. This showed me which fences were not built on the true property lines (who’s surprised?) and exactly where to site the footings. Nevertheless, I spent considerable time measuring from known control points located on the property. Since this pergola is nestled in a corner, my rough layout was pretty much done for me by the existing fences on the adjacent properties. Where I build there’s a 4-foot setback from the property line to the edge of any structure. Rough-siting the structure is typically basic. And, I build in design elements so that I can make on-the-fly tweaks to the basic design as the unit comes together. In a larger space, working in basic units (8 feet, 10 feet etc.) is a little easier because there are fewer reference points to show that something is out of balance or otherwise encroaching on another visual element of the landscape.

PERGOLA PATTERN DESIGN RAFTER TAILS WINDOWS

If you have to nestle the unit in a small space like a backyard nook, site lines from the house, interior windows and other egress points should be investigated and considered. The pergola shown here has 18-inch overhangs. Finally, for cantilevering past the posts, my feeling is that anything less than 12 inches looks less than graceful. If there’s a ceiling fan, I want 88 inches under those blades, if not more. The girder should be 80 inches minimum from the ground, the same as an interior doorway. You don’t have to be Da Vinci, but it takes a decent eye to “Goldilocks” the proportions: Too skinny and tall looks like a tower too short and wide looks like a table. There are four design rules I like to follow, otherwise pergolas can be more of an inductive (seat-of-the-pants) rather than deductive (following a prescribed plan) process. Proportion is key to designing a pergola that fits the space, especially in tight quarters. When it comes time to trim the structure I can leave the sandbox or remove it. I use it to mark layout, confirm proper sizing and location of the structure, and to anchor the posts. The template is what I call a “sandbox.” It’s great. It’s a nice departure from razor-thin margins and brain-surgery retrofits.Ī key element to building this kind of project as a freestanding unit is full-size templating. A pergola is practically the definition of a luxury item, and budgets usually enable me to use nice materials and take the time required to build them well. If you’re a builder or remodeler, building pergolas is typically pretty profitable.

And, if you can safely weave in an outdoor fireplace situation-man, there’s a lot to love. (See Sidebar, “Making the Connections”.) Then of course, there’s the outdoor living aspect: There is nothing like kicking back on a lazy summer evening under a pergola, dining al fresco, and spending time with family and friends. And while the pergola explained here is built as a stand-alone, weaving one into an existing patio or sitting area is also ideal. You can see them out the window, when walking in from the driveway, or as you mow the lawn. A nice pergola creates a look and a space that enhances a backyard experience-even when you’re not eating dinner or playing with the kids beneath it. What’s more, after having built several of them I can tell you the ROI (return on investment) is awesome. There’s just enough of each to tickle my carpenter’s ganglia without sending me to Bedlam. I like the balance of macro work (digging holes, cutting timbers) and micro work (awesome layout tricks, scroll cuts). Whatever they’re called, I enjoy building them. It depends who you talk to: I’ve heard them referred to as pergolas, arbors, colonnades, a trellis, and (no joke) “one of those garden thingies.”

Alternative Heating & Fireplace Inserts.

Pergola pattern design rafter tails